More than meets the eye
As a New Yorker, hometown transplants like STK, Milos and Scarpetta weren’t nearly as exciting as Jaleo and D.O.C.G. — the hotel’s secret pizza haven that is open until 5 a.m. (which, unfortunately, wasn’t late enough after a long night of dancing at Marquee).
Visually, Jaleo is unique to The Cosmopolitan’s restaurant row. There is no frontage to the eatery, but rather the muted David Rockwell-designed public spaces segue into the bold, brilliant hues of Jaleo’s flamboyant décor.
My last Jose Andres experience was at The Bazaar in Los Angeles, which was nothing short of revelatory. While Andres is best known for his ability to re-imagine the ordinary, he is equally talented at perfecting the classics.
The parade of small plates continues with fried bacon-wrapped dates, piquillo peppers stuffed with sweet Dungeness crab and Alcántara-style squab with truffles and foie gras.
Cooked over a wood-burning grill, the Valenciana Paella is the special of the evening. Artichokes, green beans and rabbit confit interlace crispy saffron-scented rice.
Sparkling Cava sangria accentuates every savory morsel — the perfect precursor to chilled shots of Milagro. Dinner aside, this is a party, after all.