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Farm to table?

It is of course admirable for a chef or restaurateur to prefer local, fresh products, even possibly coming from their own farm or garden. But I can’t help it when I’m a bit skeptical about the hype that accompanies this “farm to table” trend.

I’m sure we all know of hotels (from Europe to Asia) which heavily advertise their “own garden” that in fact turns out to be 16 square meters of land in a polluted city center to service more than 100 rooms.

I don’t blame anyone for communicating and trying to tell stories about how much they love gardening their own veggies, but I become suspicious when the key message is about one beehive on the roof of a 500-room hotel, one “herb” garden the size of a ping pong table, or when the hotel is proud to harvest 10 heads of salad a year while room service alone requires that in just one night.

Less (communication) is sometimes more. No surprise then that this small local restaurant (La Fripounière in Roubion lost in the Alps but only 1.5 hour drive from Nice) with 12 rooms is attracting the “crème de la crème” from our profession. From the peaches next door to their own berries and veggies – just taste it – this is as local as it gets without having to brag about it.

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