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A palette of dips for palates at Bvlgari’s Rivea

Even before you have had time to look at the menu in Rivea by Alain Ducasse at Bvlgari Hotel, London, you have a taste of the French chief’s creativity (it was he who introduced clear glass confections of steamed vegetables in his Spoon restaurants). At Rivea, you are first brought, per table, a bowl of crudités.

The dips, clockwise from top left (some are hidden by the housemade bread sticks): beetroot and horseradish, aubergine confit, chilli and bell pepper, coco beans and sage, carrot and cardamom, taggiasca olives and anchovies, yellow pepper and ginger, and fennel and grapefruit.
The dips, clockwise from top left (some are hidden by the housemade bread sticks): beetroot and horseradish, aubergine confit, chilli and bell pepper, coco beans and sage, carrot and cardamom, taggiasca olives and anchovies, yellow pepper and ginger, and fennel and grapefruit.

Now comes the unexpected, at least as far as first-time guests here are concerned. As the photo shows, a square Pillivuyt dish serves as a palette holding homemade grissini bread sticks surrounded by eight tiny bowls of dips. An accompanying card identifies the dips. After that, the meal continues.

Kostas Sfaltos, general manager of the 85-key all-suite hotel, says having this Ducasse pre-taster does not seem to dent subsequent ordering (many of the dishes listed on the menu are intended for sharing). The pre-taste, always the same combinations to adhere to the printed card, has minimal effect on food or labor costs and the idea provides differentiation. It is also particularly appreciated by single diners, who have something to concentrate on as alternative to working devices, reading or simply sitting there.

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